
Viewer Questions
Season 17 Episode 6 | 27m 24sVideo has Closed Captions
Chris Cooper and guests answer viewer questions.
This week on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South, host Chris Cooper and guests discuss viewers questions on a wide range of gardening topics.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Viewer Questions
Season 17 Episode 6 | 27m 24sVideo has Closed Captions
This week on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South, host Chris Cooper and guests discuss viewers questions on a wide range of gardening topics.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship- Hi, thanks for joining us for the Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Today we're catching up on viewer questions.
There's questions about plants, bugs, and creatures.
Next on the Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
- (female announcer) Production funding for the Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South is provided by the WKNO Production Fund, the WKNO Endowment Fund, and by viewers like you, thank you.
[upbeat country music] - Welcome to the Family Plot.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Spring is here, and hopefully your garden is doing well so far.
Today we're taking a break from our garden to answer a few viewer questions we did not have time to air.
Let's start with one about getting rid of tree of heaven.
"What is the best way to kill tree of heaven?"
And this is Mark from Hamlin, New York.
So tree of heaven.
- Yeah.
Exotic weed tree.
- Invasive.
- You know, the tree grows in Brooklyn.
That was that tree, if you read that book.
But, yeah, that was that tree.
Again, I would cut that in the summer when actively growing.
You won't do it in the winter.
If you just cut it and left it, you're gonna have all these sprouts come up.
But you wanna cut it and you wanna paint it with, could use Roundup concentrate.
Don't dilute it.
- Yeah, I'll use concentrate.
- Or triclopyr.
Triclopyr will work better.
And paint that whole wound as soon as you cut it within, you know, 30 seconds, you wanna do that so it doesn't seal up on you, and just let it go from there.
And, but cut that thing down and paint that.
Use a Q-tip or a brush or a sponge and treat that where you've cut that.
- Yeah, and I'll probably do that mid, late summer into the fall, yeah.
- And when you paint it on it, it'll soak it in.
You want it to do that, so.
- That's a, it's a hard, hard- - It is.
- You know, tree to kill, you know, for sure.
And it's the host tree for the spotted lanternfly.
Right, so that's why they're trying to get rid of it, you know, down this way.
So it could be tough.
[upbeat country music] "How do I get rid of chiggers in the garden?
This is Marion from Manchester, Michigan.
He says he's never had a problem, but this last year they invaded his garden and he felt it.
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
- That sounds terrible.
- It sounds terrible.
- Yeah.
- It sounds terrible.
- Chiggers are awful things.
- Chiggers are pretty bad.
- But I was surprised to read this that he's experienced them in the garden.
- In the garden.
Yeah.
- 'Cause I'm used to running into 'em maybe in overgrown fields.
- Okay.
- So I would say to try to get rid of 'em, keep that grass cut short, keep any weeds pulled.
Definitely don't have tall weeds.
Cut back your overgrown shrubs.
Just try to let in more light, more air circulation into your garden.
Anything else- - I would agree with that.
- That you would think to do?
- So, a couple years ago I had a bout with chiggers.
- Fun.
- But I was out in the woods, - Sure.
- Yeah, but in the garden setting, that's what I would do.
I mean, they like moist conditions, they like shady conditions, of course.
So you have to disrupt their habitat.
And so all of those things that you mentioned is something I would do.
Now, if you want to, around your garden, you can actually sprinkle diatomaceous earth.
- I've heard that.
- Right.
So you can actually do that.
You can also use sulfur dust, but I wouldn't use that particularly.
'Cause the diatomaceous earth would work better, right?
Read and follow the label.
That should work for you.
- And that diatomaceous earth, that works on the larva, the chigger larva?
- It works on the larva.
And it work on the chiggers, too, I mean.
Yeah, once they go, you know, through it, around it, yeah, you oughta cut 'em up.
- Okay.
- Yeah.
- Fantastic.
- But, you know, definitely larvae.
But yeah, the adults, too, as well.
So that's probably the route I would take.
And then how about encourage wildlife, birds?
- Oh, yeah.
- Birds eat chiggers.
- They would, - So yeah, just encourage some of the wildlife to come in.
[upbeat country music] "Can I use a systemic insecticide to protect my tree from spotted lanternflies?"
And this is Nick in Cleveland, Ohio.
- Oh, wow.
- Oh, so they're there.
- Oh my goodness.
- Yeah.
The spotted lanternflies are there.
- They're spreading across the United States.
- Okay, so can he use a systemic insecticide?
- Yes, he can.
It's not gonna be the be all and end all for him.
He's still gonna have to scout for them and, you know, if you see some, get some contact insecticide to spray on 'em, 'cause that will, you know, they, you have to have contact to spray on those.
- Yeah.
Yeah.
- But systemics will help, but it's not the answer.
- It's not the cure all.
- Mm-mm.
- Right, so yeah, you're gonna have to get out there and scout, like you mentioned.
Here's what I would do.
'Cause we've heard a lot about the lanternfly, you know, here, you know, in the Mid-South, just the information we've gotten from TDA, Tennessee Department of Ag.
I would say from November to about April, I would use an oil.
So you can use neem oil, you can use horticultural oil, or dormant oil.
Read and follow the label on those, right?
That will smother the nymphs, right, and maybe some of the eggs, too, as well.
If you wanted to use a systemic insecticide, which we're talking about, and that was this question, I would use those, right, apply those April to July.
- Right.
- April to July.
- 'Cause the plant has to be actively growing.
- Has to be taking up water.
- And taking the systemic through the system of the plant, yes.
- So I would do that then, right?
I wish to know what kind of tree he was talking about.
Because we know the host plant is the tree of heaven.
- Tree of heaven.
Yeah.
- You know?
And there's also a willow I've heard, walnut I've heard, too, as well.
Maples is another one.
- And it could be his grapes.
'Cause they get on grapes really bad too.
- They sure do.
So there you have it, Nick.
Hope that helps you out.
- But grapes don't usually tree, so.
- Yeah, but yeah.
- I'm hoping it's not a grape.
- Yeah, we're hoping it's not grapes for sure.
Yeah.
But yeah, check with your local Extension Office, 'cause they may have more information, you know, about this.
- Locally.
- Yeah, we don't want this down here in the Mid-South, right?
We do not.
- I think they're coming, but yeah, eventually.
- Eventually the spotted lanternfly will get here.
[upbeat country music] "What are these small white circular bugs on my plants?
How do I get rid of them?"
And this is Peter from Alhambra, California.
So what are those white circular bugs?
- That is a type of scale.
We do have a lot of scale insects.
And that is one that is called a waxy scale.
So that is covered, the plant, the insect itself is covered in this waxy protective coating.
And that's the adult stage.
And at that point it stays where it is.
It doesn't move anymore.
That waxy protective coating makes insecticides difficult to use.
- Very.
Yeah.
- The easiest way to get rid of 'em really is manual removal.
Just brush 'em off, pop 'em off.
You can let 'em fall to the ground.
Let those ground-dwelling insects take care of 'em, make a meal out of 'em.
They really are easy to pop off- - Yeah, they are.
- And just brush off.
In the spring, you could use a horticultural oil on the plant.
That's the crawler stage where any eggs would be hatching and coming out to move around the plant.
And also, I wouldn't say to use a systemic insecticide on that.
You could on other plants, but it looks like this is a passion vine, which is a host plant for one of our butterfly caterpillars for the gulf fritillary.
So you don't wanna, I would not want to recommend introducing chemicals into that plant since it's gonna be feeding caterpillars.
And also when it blooms, it'll feed bees and other pollinators.
- So manually just pick 'em off.
- Right.
- Right, which you can do.
They have piercing-sucking mouthparts- - They do.
- So they're feeding on plant sap.
- Right?
- Yeah, so it can cause the leaves to drop and it can stunt the growth of the plant itself.
- Sure can.
- Right.
So, again, they're in the adult stage in that picture.
- Right.
- I would just pluck 'em off.
- Right.
- Like you said.
- Right.
- And I think that'll do it.
- And on this particular vine, if it's heavily infested, if those things are everywhere and it's just gonna be too much to manually cut it off, you could cut that vine all the way back to the ground, maybe a few inches from the ground, and then just get rid of that foliage, that infested foliage, and then keep an eye on it when the new growth comes out and treat with that oil or insecticidal soap at that point, if you need to.
[upbeat country music] - "Can I stop voles by putting a barrier of marble chips in the soil around my hostas?"
And this is John.
So what do you think about that, Mr.
D?
- Nope.
[Chris laughing] - Nope.
- Nope.
Because they're gonna, the voles are coming from underneath.
They will go underneath your marble chips.
You know, you can, there are mechanical barriers that you can construct or buy.
Vole King, I think, is one that you can use to fit into the ground and then put your plant into it.
And it's metal and it that keeps the voles out.
And you can sink hardware cloth or rabbit wire six inches deep around your plants.
And that will, that mechanical barrier will work.
But anything on top of the ground's not gonna do the trick, 'cause they're gonna come underneath that.
And- - I've even done like a basket approach before.
Just dug my hole really deep, like when I'm planting bulbs, and just lined that entire area with that hardware cloth.
- Does this sound familiar?
That sounds familiar?
- We had, yeah, we, I made boxes out of wire.
- Okay.
- And we planted, I actually have a hosta in my house that I planted in this wire box, and it's in the ground.
And you would never know that the whole hosta is in a wire box in the ground.
- Do you- - The roots go through it?
- Yep, shoots grow through it.
It works.
- And does some of it stick above the ground as well?
- No.
- No?
Okay.
Sometimes I have issues even with voles.
You know, they go underground but they also have, you know, above ground like portions of their run go above ground, you know, from hole to hole.
Sometimes they'll stop off and chew a plant, right, at the base, too, you know?
So, I mean, that might be beneficial if you're struggling with visual damage that you can see above ground, maybe extending your, whatever, barrier, physical barrier it is, a couple inches.
- Hopefully every once in a while, a mole will bite onto that wire and it'll break off a little piece of the tooth.
- No.
every once in a while, it may happen.
You know, I'm sitting here thinking, actually on the Family Plot Jim Crowder was here.
And he actually talked about using a soil perfector, you know, which is crushed rock.
So he actually will plant the hostas in the crushed rock.
- In the crushed rock.
- Right.
- Hmm.
- Yeah, so he did a demo- - That's interesting.
- With that here on the set, so.
- I think my voles would reach in there and they would remove the rock.
- Ah, they take the rocks out.
- Pull 'em out and they would, I have smart voles.
- My gosh.
- There are a lot of plant collectors that I know especially who love hosta.
They've resorted to just planting their hosta in containers and setting them out in the landscape.
And then once they leaf out, you know, just depending on how tall your pot is, it actually can be quite like pleasing to the eye.
'Cause you get some different elevations, some different height out in the garden.
But, you know, they just got so tired of fighting the voles.
Hosta are one of their favorite.
- Yep.
Yep.
They actually do just that at the Memphis Botanic Garden.
- Oh, they do?
- Yes, they do.
- Yes, they do.
- Oh, good.
- That's for sure.
[upbeat country music] "How should I go about trimming the freeze damaged areas of my dwarf Japanese cedar?"
And this is Joseph.
He says the plant has some regrowth but wants to know how far to cut it back.
So can we help him out?
- Sure, so that's Cryptomeria.
I would not do it.
I would wait and see what kind of new growth comes out before you start cutting.
And then you can do the little scratch test to save the bark.
- Nah, I was thinking- - But the deadwood's not gonna come back alive, so you're gonna need to take that out.
So you may have to do some harsh pruning and hopefully it'll grow out eventually and fill that in.
It takes some time, but you gotta get the deadwood out of there.
- Okay, yeah.
All the way back to green tissue.
- That's right.
- Yeah.
And cut out the dead if you possibly can.
Would you fertilize to help it out?
- You could.
I wouldn't do a heavy nitrogen, but I would do some fertilizer.
And make sure you sanitize your tools- - Oh, good point.
- In between.
[upbeat country music] - "What is causing some of the branches "of my 3-year-old Cryptomeria tree "to turn brown in late summer?
It receives partial sun, but I do not water it."
And this is Dorothy from Hartselle, Alabama.
She says it is growing in red clay.
[laughs] - So- - So why is it, yeah, why is it turning brown?
- You know, it's a tough plant and it is drought-tolerant, but if it's really dry, it could be drought stress.
- That's what I'm thinking.
- That's causing it.
- That's what I'm thinking.
It's probably a little bit of drought stress.
Don't throw the water to it, but deeply water it once a week in the summer maybe, and check it and, you know, stick your finger down and the, if it's wet down the two joints or whatever, then you don't need to water it, but don't overwater that plant for sure.
- Yeah, so I would encourage using mulch, you know, too.
- Yes.
Keep it from drying out.
- Yep.
Consistent, you know, moisture.
- Moisture.
- I think that will help.
Would she need to cut out any of the browning?
- No, if it's green and back up, I would not.
You know, if it's dead branches, you do need to take 'em out, but- - Okay.
Any fertilizer to kinda help it out?
- I could do something organic.
Again, I wouldn't, you don't wanna stress it by adding a whole bunch of nitrogen to it.
I would, just balanced fertilizer.
- Okay.
So let's address the growing in red clay.
Is that a problem that it's growing in the red clay?
- No, I mean, it's the state, you know, it's the national tree of Japan and highly valued there.
It's got kind of a pinkish bark.
And, I mean, some of the plants, the oldest one is over 2,000 years old.
- Wow, that's impressive.
- 200-something feet tall.
- That's impressive.
- The native one, the species ones, but I don't, I think it's a tough tree, could handle that clay.
It would be better if it had better drainage for it, but if it's growing and surviving there, I think it'd be fine.
I mean, you could add some organics around it, I mean, would help.
A little compost around it would definitely help it.
- I would agree with that.
Yeah.
It's just three years old.
I mean, so the root system's, you know, still trying to develop, you know, so I would definitely water it.
[upbeat country music] "Why is the bark peeling off my tree?
"Is there anything I can do to stop it?
The tree is at least 50 years old."
And this is Lee from Brookings, South Dakota.
- Wow.
- And we appreciate that picture, right?
- Yeah, that's a nice picture.
- So what do you think about the bark peeling?
What caused that?
- Well, to me it looks like sunscald.
- Yeah.
I would agree with that.
- And, you know, we have had such strange weather all across the country.
- Yeah.
- Hot, cold, hot, cold.
It doesn't surprise me that some of these plants that 50 years old are getting a little weak and maybe they just couldn't take the freezing and thawing and the sunscald got it.
- Yeah.
- Finally when it's older age.
- Yeah, it's probably the south side of the tree.
Got all that sun during the day, and night.
South Dakota probably, the temperature probably- - Drop real low.
And it just that that freezing and thawing just caused the bark to crack like that and sent with sunscald, and- - Is there anything you can do about it?
- There's not a whole lot you can do about it.
But fertilize and water during drought times, try to keep it as healthy as you possibly can.
And they will try, some sunscald will try to cover over and heal themselves.
Sometimes they will, and sometimes they just can't make it.
- Okay.
Yeah, so keep the tree comfortable.
I wish we knew what kind of tree it was.
I was trying to figure it out from the bark.
It's kind of hard to tell.
- It looks, yeah, I can't tell exactly what kind of tree it is.
I wish I did know.
- Yeah.
But yeah, keep it comfortable, water, mulch, like you said.
Get your soil tested, you know?
See if you can fertilize it or something like that.
But here's something else though.
I would be concerned if I saw mushrooms.
- Yeah, that's definitely.
- Yeah.
I would be concerned, or dieback- - It doesn't show- - In the upper canopy.
- A part of the soil.
- I would be concerned if I saw those two things.
- Yeah, and especially if it happens to be an evergreen, you can really see if any kind of damage- - Yes, you could.
- Yellowing or browning in the tree.
- Yeah.
- And, you know, if he could get a hold of his local Extension agent, and maybe there's something that, you know, they can do about it.
You know, they might know more what that particular tree- - I agree.
- In that state.
- I agree.
But I would definitely be concerned if I saw those two things.
- Yeah.
- Or a certified arborist.
- Certified arborist could help too.
- Could help as well.
- Sure.
- Could help as well.
- They sure could.
[upbeat country music] - "My arborvitae has a lot of dead spots.
What can I do to help it recover?"
And this is James from Memphis, Tennessee.
So Jill, I have seen a lot of dead or dying arborvitae over the past year.
- I have too.
- Have you seen it?
- They seem to be increasing.
- Yes.
- Yes.
- Yeah, so some of the causes, this is what I think.
Drought stress, heat stress.
Poor drainage can be an issue, right?
Spider mites, 'cause it's been hot and dry, right?
- Yeah, it has.
- Could also be an issue.
Or if you have the mulch piled up, you know, against the trunk of the tree, then there may be some fungal issues in there as well.
But from that picture, right, it looks like a lot of damage to me.
- It does.
- Here's what I often tell homeowners.
If I see 50, 60, 70% browning, dying, 'cause, right, you had to get in there to cut it out, right?
If I see that much damage, then I usually say, "Maybe it's time to start over with something else."
- Right.
Just go ahead, cut it down.
Plant something else.
- Plant something else.
- Unfortunately, that would be my take on that picture too.
That I don't think there's any way to make that tree come back I don't think so.
- From this state.
- 'Cause again, once you get in there and start, you know, pruning out the dead, there's not gonna be much left.
- No, there's not.
- And it's not gonna regrow, you know, at that rate.
- No, no, it won't.
It's never gonna look the same.
- It's not.
[upbeat country music] "This last winter, bugs decimated my collards, "kale, mustards, and turnip greens.
"My neighbors have the same problem.
"This has never happened before.
What pest is this and how do I stop it?"
- Oh, wow.
- And this is James and the picture.
- It was a good picture, but- - It's a good picture.
- It's frightening picture.
- Oh, they got decimated.
- Yeah.
He's right.
- They got decimated.
- They decimated his collards.
Yeah.
- So when I looked at it, knew what it was, right, immediately.
It's flea beetles.
Flea beetles love plants in the Brassica family.
- Aha.
- They chew little holes that become big holes coalesce, right, on the leaves.
Here's the thing about flea beetles though.
They could be difficult to control.
Soon as you plant any plants in the Brassica family, I would cover them with a row- - Oh row crop them.
- Floating row cover.
I would do that, right?
- Yeah.
- At least let, you know, let the plant mature.
You could take 'em off.
And then the plant at that point in time can handle the damage from the flea beetles.
- Wow.
Yeah.
- You could do that.
Floating row covers is one.
Number two, right, they like dry soils, right?
So make sure the soils are not too wet, right?
You can also apply mulch, or I've heard this one from Dr.
Natalie, how about a trap crop?
- Yeah, that's true.
- So in between, you can plant radishes or mustards as a trap crop.
- And they'll try to eat those.
- Yeah, they'll try to eat those.
- Instead of your crop.
- Yep, and these, this say last winter, you can do an earlier fall crop.
You know, that may help.
But, you know, just depends on the year, right?
Just depends on the year.
- True.
Our weather changes.
- So if you have a mild winter like we had, right, guess what?
Survival rate is gonna be higher.
- Yeah, that's true.
- For the flea beetles, right?
- That is true.
- So mild winter into like a dry spring, you gonna have more.
- Oh, wow.
- Yeah.
- So be prepared.
- So be prepared.
- For those row crop covers.
- Yeah, but yeah, I would get the floating row covers.
If you want to use a pesticide, there's one that's a little safer to use, spinosad is one you can use.
- Spinosad, yeah.
- Yeah, read and follow the label on that.
I think you'd be okay.
- Yep.
- Yeah.
You better catch 'em when they're little though.
- Yeah, I know.
Because I have to, I have problems with them on my broccoli.
- Broccoli.
- Yeah.
- Brassica.
- I've had 'em on, I've had 'em on my broccoli, so.
- Yeah, any plants in the Brassica family, they absolutely love.
- And I did.
I did.
I covered them one year and it really helped.
- Yeah.
So that's what I would do.
If you can do that, you know, I will cover 'em with the floating row cover.
- Yeah.
- Yeah, just let 'em mature, and once they mature they can handle the damage.
[upbeat country music] "Are the roots of ornamental sweet potatoes edible?"
And this is [laughs], and I remember we dug up some before.
- Yeah.
We've dug up some and they're out there.
I mean, I'm, you know- - Tubers.
- I don't even know if we ever replanted those to see if they produced but, more, another sweet potato vine, but I'm sure they would in the right conditions.
It says ornamental for a reason.
And so I tend to not do that because I would rather take my, if you really want a good sweet potato then grow a good variety - You're right, right.
- That is gonna be really nutritious, and you're gonna like it a lot better.
I don't, it says ornamental- - Beauregard, Centennial, yeah.
- Beauregard.
Yes.
- Yeah.
Those would be good, but yeah, ornamental.
- Ornamental for, it says ornamental for a reason.
It's grown for foliage and not for eating.
- Right, foliage and growth.
Yeah, definitely not for eating.
Yeah, so.
- No.
[upbeat country music] - "How would I use herbicide to get rid of Virginia creeper?"
And this is Shelly.
She says the vines are growing in and through a hedge.
So this is a question we get a lot at the Extension Office.
So what do you think about that?
- Well, I would definitely not spray it 'cause it's in the hedge.
I would cut it back as closest to the source in the soil that you can and then take either straight Roundup or you could use triclopyr, and do it in the summer.
Do it when it's actively growing.
And put that on the cut that you've made.
Soon as you cut it, put that on there.
You can use a little brush or something like that.
You put 'em there and let that take that up and then go from there.
If you can do it on the ground, I've seen take a glass jar and put that over it and let the sun, if it's in sun, it'll just cook it and and kill it that way.
That's kind of old school.
But definitely Roundup.
You can use the Roundup, the brush killer, has more stuff in it than just glyphosate.
But that will work if you cut it back and then treat that wound with it.
- Take it out.
- I would definitely do that.
Be careful.
Read and follow the label with that, of course.
Yeah, I'll use a paintbrush or a little piece of sponge, you know, and just dabble that stem or those leaves, but I definitely wouldn't spray over the top.
- The Q-tip, whatever, a Q-tip.
- would work.
- Yeah, but definitely, Ms.
Shelly, don't spray over the top.
- That's right.
- Or you can just grab a piece of it, you know, follow it down by the inch above the soil surface.
You can nip it and paint it.
- Yep.
- So I think that would work.
Again, reading and follow the label on that.
[upbeat country music] "How did you kill pokeweed?"
And this is Dee from Oklahoma.
So how do you kill pokeweed, Dr.
Kelly?
- Well, down here when it's young, we eat it and make poke salad.
And I bet you they've heard of that in Oklahoma, but I know they can be- - Be careful if you do that.
- Well, not if they're young.
You don't have to worry about it.
- Yeah, they're young- - But if they get notice, I said young.
If they get, you know, mature and old, you know, obviously you don't eat it, they can be, you know, kind of poisonous.
So give you the bellyache and worse.
But anyway, if you wanna kill pokeweed, what I would do when they're young, they do have a lot of seed, you know, and they will seed everywhere and birds, you know, scatter 'em everywhere after they digest them and eliminate them so it can become a problem.
And I do have it all in my garden and stuff and they're very easy to hand weed or hoe when they're young.
- Okay.
- Very, very easy.
I just pull 'em up, you know, and I throw 'em over the fence to the cows and let them have some poke salad.
But when they get bigger, when they get really big, they can have huge stalks.
- Oh yeah, I see that.
- I mean, they can have two or three inch big, big, huge things.
And when they're that big, they have quite a big taproot.
- Yes, they do.
- And if you leave any of that root, you know, it's just gonna come back.
Because where we are, they can be perennials.
I don't know how far north they go that their hardiness goes, but down here in probably in Oklahoma, too, they're probably perennial.
So if you let 'em get big, you're either gonna have to just dig it up with a shovel, you know, and get that whole taproot out.
Which is really not hard.
They're not really hard to dig up.
or you can just, you know, spray them.
But I don't really like, 'cause they're so big.
I usually just dig 'em out obviously, you know, really, I dig 'em out.
Or you can cut 'em and paint the cut place with a herbicide of some kind.
- Yeah, that's an option.
- You know?
But they're not one of the worst weeds, but they can get sort of bad 'cause they do have seeds that come around everywhere.
- Yeah.
And they are a nice color.
- Oh, they are.
Actually, they have one ornamentally now that you can buy that has variegated foliage.
How about that?
- Wow.
- They sure do.
yeah, I've seen it in gardens in Arkansas and down in Louisiana.
You know, and it has this real pretty, you know, actually poke salad's kind of pretty, poke weed, you know we call it poke weed, but poke salad.
But yeah, they're pretty plants.
- I think they are too as well.
- Yeah, they have that pretty red stalk.
They've all pretty red berries.
It's poisonous.
- Yeah, poisonous.
All right, that's for sure.
- To us, not to birds.
I don't- - Yeah, I would just say, though, if you're looking to get rid of it, if it's big and you're digging it up, if it has the berries, go ahead and cut all the berries off and throw them away so that way as you're, you know, digging it up and knocking it around that you're not knocking these berries off so they can- - Yeah, good point.
- Leave them in the ground.
- Yeah.
- Yeah, yeah.
- I agree.
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I'm Chris Cooper.
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